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Scottish Woodcock

For the Woodcock spread thinner pieces of buttered toast with anchovy paste and keep them hot. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, put in three tablespoonfuls of cream and the raw yolks of three eggs, and stir together over the fire till the mixture is creamy. Do not boil. Add at the last a dash of cayenne and a little chopped parsley. Heap on the toast and serve piping hot.

Game-birds must regularly have graced the tables of the gentry, but would rarely be tasted by the ordinary folk. Dr Johnson (who, it must be remembered, was generally fortunate enough to be entertained by the gentry on his travels) made this observation on his Highland tour:

" At the tables where a stranger is received, neither plenty nor delicacy is wanting. A tract of land so thinly inhabited, must have much wildfowl, and I scarce remember to have seen a dinner without them. The moorgame is everywhere to be had. "

Scots Rabbit, Scots Woodcock and Scots Eggs have all attained to international fame.

Scots Eggs are first boiled hard, then peeled and dipped in raw beaten egg and coated with a forcemeat of chopped ham, anchovy, bread crumbs and mixed spices that has been well beaten. Fry in deep clarified fat and serve with a gravy sauce in a separate dish.

Scots Rabbit. The Rabbit is best made from the distinctive Scottish, Dunlop or Gouda cheeses, although you can fall back at second best on a good Cheshire or mellow Stilton. Remove the crust from a slice of bread about half-an-inch thick. Toast lightly on both sides and butter on one. Grate your cheese, putting a little butter with it if it is not fat, and cook in a cheese toaster with a glassful of strong brown-stout porter (or beer) a teaspoonful of made mustard and some finely ground pepper. Stir till all is mixed and soft, spread on the toast, and brown under the grill before serving.

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